How to Inspect a Used Car Before You Buy

Buying a used car can save you thousands of dollars - but only if you don't end up with someone else's problem. A thorough inspection before you buy is your best protection against expensive surprises.

This guide gives you a practical, step-by-step inspection process you can do yourself, plus when to call in a professional.

Before You Start: Set the Right Conditions

Inspect in daylight - Never inspect a car at night or in a dimly lit garage. You need good lighting to spot paint issues, rust, and damage.

On level ground - This helps you check for fluid leaks and assess the car's stance.

When the engine is cold - Arrive unannounced or early. A warm engine can hide starting problems and mask fluid leaks.

Exterior Inspection Checklist

Body Condition

Walk around the entire car and check for:

• Rust spots - Check wheel wells, rocker panels, door bottoms, and around the windshield. Surface rust is manageable; holes or bubbling paint indicate serious problems.
• Panel gaps - Stand at each corner and look down the side. Uneven gaps between doors, hood, or trunk suggest accident repair.
• Paint mismatches - Compare panels in direct sunlight. Different shades or textures indicate repainting after damage.
• Dents and scratches - Note their location and severity. Small dents are cosmetic; damage near frame rails is concerning.
• Overspray - Check rubber seals, trim, and inside door jambs for paint that shouldn't be there.

Glass and Lights

• Windshield - Look for chips, cracks, or pitting. Small chips can spread; cracks often fail safety inspection.
• All windows - Check for proper operation and any cracks.
• Headlights/taillights - Look for moisture inside (seal failure), cracks, or cloudiness.
• Turn signals and brake lights - Have your friend activate them while you check.

Tires and Wheels

• Tread depth - Use the "toonie test": insert a toonie into the tread. If you can see the bear's paws, tires need replacing soon.
• Wear patterns:
  • Center wear = overinflation
  • Edge wear = underinflation
  • One-sided wear = alignment issues
  • Cupping/scalloping = suspension problems
• Tire age - Check the DOT code on the sidewall. Last 4 digits show week and year (e.g., 2521 = week 25 of 2021). Tires over 6 years old should be replaced.
• Matching tires - All four should be the same brand and size. Mismatched tires suggest cheap maintenance.

Underneath the Car

Get down and look under the vehicle with your flashlight:

• Fluid stains - Fresh wet spots are concerning. Oil is dark, coolant is green/orange, transmission fluid is red/pink.
• Rust on frame - Surface rust is normal; scaling, holes, or structural rust is a deal-breaker.
• Exhaust system - Look for holes, heavy rust, or hanging components.
• Suspension components - Check for leaking shocks, cracked boots, or damaged parts.

Interior Inspection Checklist

Overall Condition

• Smell test - Musty smell suggests water damage. Sweet smell could be coolant leak. Smoke smell is hard to remove.
• Seat wear - Does wear match the odometer? A car with 50,000 km shouldn't have a worn-out driver's seat.
• Carpet and floor mats - Lift them and check for moisture, stains, or rust.
• Headliner - Sagging or stained headliners are expensive to fix.

Electronics and Features

Test everything:

• All power windows (up and down fully)
• Door locks (all doors, from driver's switch and individually)
• Mirrors (adjust and fold if powered)
• Sunroof/moonroof (open, close, tilt)
• Air conditioning (cold air within 30 seconds)
• Heater (hot air within a few minutes)
• All fan speeds
• Radio/infotainment system
• Bluetooth connectivity
• Backup camera
• Seat adjustments and heaters
• Steering wheel controls
• Cruise control
• USB ports and 12V outlets

Safety Systems

• Seatbelts - Pull each one fully out and check for smooth retraction. Look for fraying or damage.
• Dashboard lights - Turn the key to "on" without starting. All warning lights should illuminate briefly, then turn off when started. Lights that stay on indicate problems.
• Airbag light - Should flash and turn off. A constant light means airbag issues - expensive to fix and dangerous.

Under the Hood Basics

You don't need to be a mechanic to check these items:

Fluids

Engine oil (with engine off and cold):

• Pull dipstick, wipe, reinsert, pull again
• Level should be between min and max marks
• Color: Amber/light brown is good; black and gritty is overdue for change; milky suggests coolant contamination (serious)

Coolant:

• Check reservoir level (cold engine only)
• Should be clean and the correct color (green, orange, or pink depending on type)
• No oily film on surface

Transmission fluid (if dipstick exists):

• Should be pink/red, not brown or burnt-smelling
• Level should be correct

Brake fluid:

• Check reservoir near firewall
• Should be clear to light amber, not dark brown

Power steering fluid:

• Check reservoir level
• Should be clean, not dark or gritty

Other Checks

• Battery - Look for corrosion on terminals (white/blue buildup). Check manufacture date if visible.
• Belts - Look for cracks, fraying, or glazing. Serpentine belt replacement is $100-300.
• Hoses - Squeeze coolant hoses; they should be firm but flexible. Soft or cracked hoses need replacement.
• Air filter - Pull it out if easily accessible. Should be relatively clean, not clogged with debris.

Test Drive Checklist

The test drive is your chance to feel how the car actually performs. Take at least 20-30 minutes.

Starting the Engine

• Cold start - Engine should start within a few seconds. Extended cranking or rough idle suggests problems.
• Warning lights - All should turn off within seconds of starting.
• Idle - Should be smooth and quiet. Rough idle or hunting RPMs indicate issues.

During the Drive

Listen for:

• Squeaks or rattles (suspension, interior trim)
• Grinding when braking (worn brake pads/rotors)
• Clicking when turning (CV joints)
• Whining (power steering, transmission)
• Knocking or pinging (engine issues)

Feel for:

• Vibrations in steering wheel (alignment, tires, brakes)
• Pulling to one side (alignment, brakes, tire pressure)
• Transmission shifting (smooth in automatic, no grinding in manual)
• Clutch engagement (manual: should engage midway, not at top or bottom)
• Brake pedal feel (firm and consistent, not soft or pulsating)

Specific Tests

• Highway speeds - Get up to 100 km/h. Check for vibrations, wind noise, and stability.
• Hard acceleration - Does the car hesitate, miss, or smoke?
• Braking - Find a safe, empty area. Brake firmly - car should stop straight without pulling.
• Turning - Full left and right turns at slow speed. Listen for clicking or grinding.
• Reverse - Check for any unusual noises when backing up.
• Parking - Test parallel parking to check steering lock-to-lock.

Getting a Pre-Purchase Inspection (PPI)

This is the most important $150-200 you'll spend.

A professional mechanic will check everything you can't:

• Compression test
• Computerized diagnostic scan
• Lift inspection of undercarriage
• Brake measurement
• Suspension component wear
• Hidden rust or accident damage

How to Arrange a PPI

1. Tell the seller you want a pre-purchase inspection before committing
2. Choose YOUR mechanic, not one they suggest
3. Allow 1-2 hours for a thorough inspection
4. Get a written report of findings

What the PPI Report Should Include

• Overall condition assessment
• List of immediate repairs needed (with estimates)
• List of upcoming maintenance
• Safety concerns
• Recommendation to buy or not buy

Checking Vehicle History

CarFax Canada Report

Always get a vehicle history report ($50-60). It shows:

• Accident history - Reported collisions and damage
• Service records - Maintenance history (if reported)
• Ownership history - Number of previous owners
• Registration history - Provinces where registered
• Lien status - Money owed on the vehicle
• Odometer readings - Historical readings to spot rollback

VIN Verification

The Vehicle Identification Number is your car's fingerprint. Check that it matches:

• Dashboard (visible through windshield, driver's side)
• Driver's door jamb sticker
• Registration documents
• CarFax report

Also verify:

• VIN hasn't been tampered with (look for scratched or re-stamped numbers)
• Decode the VIN online to confirm year, make, model, and engine match the car

Spotting Odometer Rollback

Odometer fraud is still common. Watch for:

• Wear doesn't match mileage - Heavy wear on a "low mileage" car is suspicious
• Service stickers - Check oil change stickers in the door jamb for higher mileage
• CarFax gaps - Missing history periods or decreasing odometer readings
• Dashboard condition - Worn buttons and steering wheel on a "50,000 km" car suggests much higher mileage
• Original parts - A car with 60,000 km shouldn't need a new transmission or engine

Spotting Flood Damage

Flood-damaged cars from the US sometimes make their way to Canada. Check for:

• Musty or moldy smell - Especially when AC is running
• Rust in unusual places - Under the dashboard, in the trunk, on seat brackets
• Water lines - Staining on upholstery, door panels, or in the engine bay
• Fogged lights - Moisture inside headlights or taillights
• Dirt in hidden areas - Check under seats, in crevices, and in the spare tire well
• Brittle wiring - Water damages electrical connections
• Brand new carpet - On an older car, could be hiding water damage

Quick Reference Inspection Checklist

Save or screenshot this checklist to bring with you:

Exterior

• [ ] Walk around - check for rust, dents, scratches
• [ ] Panel gaps even on all sides
• [ ] Paint color matches on all panels
• [ ] No overspray on rubber/trim
• [ ] All lights work (headlights, taillights, signals)
• [ ] Windshield free of cracks/chips
• [ ] Tire tread depth adequate
• [ ] Tire wear pattern even
• [ ] Tires match (brand and size)
• [ ] No fluid leaks underneath

Interior

• [ ] No musty or smoke smell
• [ ] Wear matches odometer reading
• [ ] All power windows work
• [ ] All door locks work
• [ ] A/C blows cold
• [ ] Heater blows hot
• [ ] Radio/infotainment works
• [ ] All warning lights turn off after start
• [ ] Seatbelts retract properly

Under Hood

• [ ] Oil level and condition OK
• [ ] Coolant level OK, no oily film
• [ ] No cracked/worn belts or hoses
• [ ] Battery terminals clean
• [ ] No signs of leaks

Test Drive

• [ ] Engine starts easily
• [ ] Smooth idle
• [ ] Smooth acceleration
• [ ] Transmission shifts smoothly
• [ ] No unusual noises
• [ ] Brakes firm, stops straight
• [ ] No vibrations at highway speed
• [ ] Steering straight, no pulling

Documentation

• [ ] VIN matches everywhere
• [ ] CarFax report reviewed
• [ ] Service records available
• [ ] PPI completed by your mechanic

Ready to Calculate Your Budget?

Once you've found a car that passes inspection: